Colourfool Noema - a handmade all-glass-airpath halogen system

Hi everyone,

I’m Colourfool from Germany. Some of you may remember this project from FC, where the heater was previously known under its working name, Beacon.

What started as a single device has gradually grown into a small system — and it finally has a proper name:

Noema

Since FC is unfortunately no longer accessible, I would like to introduce the project again from the beginning.

This is not meant to be a big product announcement, and not every detail is final yet. I simply want to show what I have been working on, explain some of the decisions behind it, and share how the system has developed over time.

A hobby that got slightly out of hand

It started quietly, alongside a day job in a very different world, as a personal attempt to build a desktop vaporizer whose function I could fully understand and whose materials I could choose myself.

What seemed like a fairly simple idea at first turned into many prototypes, a lot of glass, several types of wood, different heating systems, material testing, and a surprising amount of time.

Because this is not how I make my living, I have the freedom to work slowly, discard ideas that do not feel right, and keep refining a solution until I am genuinely happy with it.

The basic idea

At the heart of the system is an electrically powered, halogen-heated convection vaporizer.

The main principles have been there from the beginning:

– a 100% all-glass air and vapor path
– no metal parts in the (hot) airpath
– a clear separation between the electrical components and the incoming air
– borosilicate glass in all functional hot areas
– wood as the housing, handle, and visual material
– a construction that is as simple and understandable as possible
– important functional parts should be replaceable by the user

Incoming air is heated by the halogen system and then drawn through the herb chamber. The device operates at low voltage and is designed for desktop use.

I am not trying to surround the actual vaporization process with as much electronics as possible.

What matters to me is the quality of the hot air, an open and controllable draw, and the use of materials I trust in these areas.

The system

Colourfool now consists of four parts with different roles:

Noema, Wisp, Cube, and Hush.

They belong together both visually and functionally, but they can be combined in different ways depending on how the system is being used.

Noema

Noema is the heater and the centre of the system.

Its former working name was Beacon. The new name comes from philosophy and, in simplified terms, refers to what is perceived or to the content of an experience.

I liked the idea that the device itself should remain somewhat in the background, while the actual experience stays at the centre.

The halogen heating system sits inside the device. The functional core is made from glass, while the outer housing is made from wood.

The outer glass inside Noema is available in several versions: violet Miron glass, which appears almost black, as well as blue, green, and brown glass. A clear version is also possible.

In principle, the different glass colours do not change the function. Together with the wood, cable, and other details, however, they give each device its own character.

It is theoretically possible that the nearly black Miron glass absorbs slightly more infrared radiation or radiant heat than the lighter versions. Whether this effect is measurable or practically relevant in such a small system is something I cannot reliably determine at this stage.

Testing only one or two devices would not provide a meaningful answer. A much larger number of units would need to be used and measured under comparable conditions over a longer period. Until then, I consider the glass colour primarily a visual choice.

For the current housings, I have also been experimenting with deeply charred and subsequently brushed wood surfaces.

The charring and brushing create a pronounced texture. This is visually interesting, but it also changes the way the device feels in the hand and reduces the amount of direct surface contact when it is held.

The wood remains untreated and is deliberately not oiled.

I am not trying to imitate a perfectly smooth and uniform industrial finish. The wood should remain recognisable as a natural material and be allowed to show its own structure.

Three drop-in herb chambers

The system currently has three interchangeable herb chambers:

Big Bowl: 18.4 mm inner diameter
Daily Driver: 11 mm inner diameter
Microdoser: 9.5 mm inner diameter

The three sizes are intended to cover very different styles of use, from larger bowls to small and controlled doses.

All three chambers follow a simple drop-in design. They require no tools or threaded connections: they simply drop into place and can be lifted out again just as easily.

Changing the chamber therefore takes only a moment and does not require any modification to the heater itself.

Wisp

Wisp is the small pipe intended for direct, dry use.

The name refers to something light and fleeting — a small wisp or trace in the air.

It is designed to be compact and comfortable to hold, and to prevent Noema from feeling like a purely technical laboratory device during use.

Wisp combines a handmade wooden body with the functional glass section. The air and vapor path itself remains part of the glass system.

It is probably the most personal part of the project, because function, feel, shape, and woodworking all meet directly in such a small object.

Its outer form may appear simple at first. With something this compact, however, a difference of only a few millimetres can have a major effect.

The angle, chamber position, mouthpiece, and the areas where the pipe is naturally held all need to work together.

Wisp should not merely look good in photographs. Above all, it should feel natural and intuitive to use.

Cube

Cube connects the system to a water piece or other glass with a 14 mm ground-glass joint.

Instead of using a conventional straight glass adapter, I wanted to create a small, independent piece that clearly belongs to the rest of the system.

Cube is intended to remain functionally simple while still having a distinct shape of its own.

Wisp and Cube therefore provide two different ways of using the same heater:

directly and dry with Wisp, or through a water piece or other glass with Cube.

There is no need to change the heater or the underlying principle of the system.

Hush

Hush is the small final piece of the system.

After a session, the spent material can be removed from the chamber by blowing it into Hush. Hush catches it and prevents it from coming back out or being scattered across the table.

It is not a technically necessary part of the vaporizer.

It simply solves a small everyday task in a clean and pleasant way.

These seemingly minor routines interest me. To me, a system is not only about the moment of vaporization. It also includes how it is prepared, used, emptied, and made ready for the next session.

The name feels appropriate because Hush marks the quiet end of a session.

What matters to me in the design

I do not want Noema to look like a generic technical device that has simply been placed inside a wooden housing.

The wood, glass, cable, and visible signs of handwork are all allowed to be part of its character.

At the same time, every material decision needs to make functional sense.

Wood belongs where the device is seen and touched. Glass takes care of the hot air and vapor path.

The coloured cables are also a deliberate part of the concept.

Colourfool is not supposed to feel completely serious and technical. Precision and a certain amount of playfulness are allowed to exist alongside one another.

The outer form is not yet final in every detail. Some proportions and production steps are still evolving.

The basic principle of the system, however, is firmly established.

Modularity and compatibility

Another important point for me is that the system should not be unnecessarily closed.

The glass head and some of the dimensions are based on solutions that already exist within the community. This means that certain stems and accessories from the Nomad and Toad ecosystem (14 mm outer diameter) can also be used.

That was a deliberate decision.

I like systems that do not make every existing part obsolete and that allow users to experiment with their own combinations.

Noema should have a character of its own, but it should not exist in a completely isolated world.

Where the project currently stands

Noema is fully functional and I use it regularly.

At the same time, I still consider it an ongoing development project. Some parts are already quite advanced, while others continue to change because it often takes extended use to find out whether a solution really works.

At this stage, I do not want to promise large quantities, fixed delivery dates, or a final price.

My aim is to produce a small and carefully made series. Each set should feel like a coherent system rather than a collection of unrelated accessories.

Why I am here

FC was an important source of knowledge, inspiration, and honest feedback for me.

Many great projects did not simply appear there as finished products. You could follow their development over time, including the decisions, problems, changes of direction, and occasional dead ends.

I always appreciated that kind of open exchange.

I hope that some of it will continue here — perhaps carried over by a cool breeze from the old place.

In this thread, I will share photographs, technical details, changes, failed attempts, and progress.

Questions and critical thoughts are very welcome. When you have been working on a project alone for a long time, even a seemingly simple question can be extremely useful.

I will not always have a final answer immediately. Some things still need to be tested or reconsidered.

That is exactly what this thread is intended for.

Thank you for reading — and thank you to everyone who helped build this new forum.

Anyone who is generally interested in a set, or who might consider placing a future pre-order, is of course very welcome to get in touch. I will provide a dedicated email address for non-binding expressions of interest at a later stage.

Cheers.

… if you want to check out previous stuff and some functional videos, please follow me on IG

Colourfoolvapes

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The Hush files are free and available to everyone.

If you need a different lid, just design one yourself and share the build with me. I’ll provide the opening for the lid insert (33.65 mm ID).

Please print and test it first. This is a modular system, so compatibility depends on the glass you’re using.

Here is the costomizer:

https://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=4268682&code=26bf1042773d207d22dd6d9d816beea0

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This looks like a really cool project/idea. Maybe i just don’t understand how devices like this work, but I’m confused about how you get the hot bowl from the Noema to the Wisp or Cube in order to use it.

Hi. You will find some videos on IG.

or… maybe a video… here?! OMG :astonished_face:

Inserting the dailydriver-bowl

Big Bowl (you can hear the free flow :smile: )

The Micro and Daily Driver chambers fit inside the glass heater tube, while the Big Bowl slides around the outside of the tube with only minimal clearance. Despite the close fit, they all use a simple drop-in system—just drop them in, lift them out, and swap them in seconds.

POV with a prototype all-glass-chamber.

Please keep in mind that everything shown so far is still a prototype. The final version of the Noema and its accessories will include a number of small refinements. Among them, all relevant glass parts will feature subtle chamfers to make assembly, insertion, and removal feel smoother and more intuitive.

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Ohhhh. I get it now lol. Thought you heated the bowl on the Noema then somehow transferred it to the vaping device :joy:

I’m kinda new around here and still learning how stuff works

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I’ve been following you on Instagram the past few months and your aesthetic caught me at first but you eco-system looks very well thought!

I’m not in the position to purchase a vape like this in the near future but I’m very interested in your Hush “spitoon”.

Will you be selling all the pieces individually?

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Thanks, I really appreciate it! :blush:
Yes, the Hush will be available separately. In the meantime, have a look further down in this thread — the 3D print files are already there, so you might be able to get started. :wink:

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For the DIY crowd, the insert alone should be enough. The basic principle should become pretty obvious once you have it in your hands. Just cut a hole in the lid with a Dremel (the rim is wide enough to allow for a bit of tolerance), then glue the insert into place.

And if anyone on the other side of the world ends up printing one, I’d absolutely love to see a photo! :blush:

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What do you have there centering the glass tube in the log body? Are those L-shaped pieces simply friction fit? Do you cut your glass bowl pieces yourself, if so, how? I have trouble getting clean ends on cut glass tubing, and you seem to use exceptionally thick tubing

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The colored glass tube inside the wooden body is centered and held in place by a very thin stainless steel foil. Those little L-shaped pieces you see are basically part of that arrangement — it’s a simple mechanical/friction fit.

And yes, I cut the glass pieces myself. At the moment I’m using a diamond grinder together with a CNC-controlled lathe chuck that rotates the glass while I’m working on it. Watercooled. The tubing is indeed pretty thick-walled, so getting really clean ends can be a bit challenging.

For the final version, I fire-polish the ends first to get nice, clean and smooth edges, and then lightly roughen them again with the diamond grinder to get the finish and look I want. (only the boro stuff).

But I’m definitely dreaming of one of these someday :heart_eyes::

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Very nicely done, your device looks very professional! When you fire polish the end, do you have to drop it in beads/sand/vermiculite or similar to slow how fast it cools, or do you anneal it in a kiln, or not worry about it? I’ll be attempting my first log build soon and the couple threads about them on here have got me coming back over and over every time I think through each step.

Thanks! :blush: From what I’ve observed and from my own experience, I think proper annealing in a kiln becomes much more important with larger pieces, especially if you’ve been heating a very localized area.

With the small glass pieces I’m working with, I haven’t found it to be as critical. After I’ve done what I need to do, I gently and evenly reheat the glass a little and then let it cool down naturally and slowly. So far, that has worked well for me.

And good luck with your first log build! I know exactly what you mean about going back through these threads over and over — there are so many little details to think through.

One thing I’ve learned that’s probably more important than anything else: hot glass and cold glass look exactly the same. :sweat_smile::fire:

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Hush got a new glass!

I found a taller jar where the lid finally fits perfectly — no more miss-and-match. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

The extra height also has a few practical advantages, so I think this might actually be the better format for Hush.

Sometimes the simplest changes make the biggest difference.

A little Noema update — the first small batch is slowly taking shape.

The Body.

I’ve spent quite a bit of time going back and forth on how I wanted to handle the edges and corners. For now, what you see here is the shape I’m going with for the first Noemas.

I decided not to machine the final rounding into the edges. The flames take care of that. During the Yakisugi process, the sharp edges soften and round off naturally. At the same time, the softer parts of the grain burn back a little more than the harder ones, leaving a very tactile surface.

You can literally feel the years of the tree with your fingertips.

And no, you won’t get black fingers from it. I promise. I already took care of the messy part for you. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

The process starts pretty simple: the wood is cut to size first, followed by four consecutive bore operations with different diameters to create the internal geometry.

After that comes one of my favorite parts: Yakisugi.

The first step is the actual charring.

Once the surface has reached the right level, I let the body cool down and brush off the loose charcoal layer. But that isn’t the end of the heat treatment. After the first cleanup, the entire body goes through another round of heating.

This second heat treatment helps stabilize the wood and drives off even more of the volatile compounds that are responsible for that typical warm-wood smell. It also gives the surface its final character before the body is cleaned and finished.

The heat treatment isn’t just about the look. Charring the surface gives the wood a naturally protected outer layer, which means I don’t need to use oils, waxes or other finishes on the body. That’s particularly important to me for something that gets warm during use — I’d rather have nothing there that can start smelling when heated.

There’s another reason as well. During the process, I deliberately heat the entire wooden body to above 100°C, not just the charred surface. This drives off a good amount of the volatile compounds responsible for that typical warm-wood smell.

Since the Noema body stays well below those temperatures during normal operation, it doesn’tsuddenly turn into a little wooden room fragrance when it gets warm. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

The goal is simple: you should smell and taste what’s in the bowl — not the wood surrounding the heater.

No oils. No waxes. No added finish.

Just wood, glass and heat.

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This is really impressive!Thanks for sharing.I can’t wait for it to be my turn ^^

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I am smelling what you are cooking and I like the smell!!!

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Noema & Wisp. Little Update

Playing with fire :fire:

I think it’s fair to say I’ve really caught fire with this part of the process. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

There was one piece I didn’t dare put through the flames for quite a while: walnut.

I’ve had this body in my hands so many times. Beautiful wood, beautiful grain — and at one point it was actually finished. More than once, to be honest. Some of you may have already seen it on Instagram.

It had been waxed, so before I could even think about Yakisugi, I had to sand it all the way back down.

And this particular body already had a rather impressive list of mistakes: wrong bores, slightly off-center, drilled too deep…

In other words: the perfect test victim. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes::fire:

So I finally thought: what happens if I send this beautiful piece of walnut through the same sea of flames?

I honestly wasn’t prepared for the result.

It sparkles. It shimmers. It glows. Depending on how the light hits it, the grain almost seems to move. The fire didn’t hide the character of the walnut — somehow it brought out an entirely different one.

I’m completely surprised by it. And a little bit in love.

I’m starting to think that all my precious hardwoods may eventually have to go through the same trial by fire. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

One thing I’ve learned about Yakisugi along the way: end grain and fire have a rather interesting relationship.

If there’s no crack, chances are you’ll get a small one.

If there’s already a crack…

it will get bigger. Much bigger. :joy:

The good news is that the small cracks I’ve seen are really only superficial. They don’t affect the structure, and to be honest, I think they have a certain charm. They’re part of what happens when you stop trying to completely control the material and let the fire have a say.

It was definitely a bit nerve-racking to put the torch to such a beautiful piece of wood, but that made the result even more rewarding. I really didn’t know what to expect.

And Wisp has changed shape

The old Wisp was simply too small, too short and too angular.

This new shape is something I’ve been experimenting with for a while now, and it feels much more settled.

I kept the 90° relationship between the mouthpiece and the bowl. I really like that geometry because it makes it easy to see exactly what you’re doing while loading and using it.

The body itself is tilted by . When Wisp is sitting on the table, that small angle makes the mouthpiece rise slightly upwards.

It’s only five degrees, but visually it makes a surprisingly big difference. To me, it almost looks like it’s inviting you to pick it up.

I’ve also changed the order of operations. I decided not to drill the holes before the Yakisugi treatment anymore. For such a small wooden body, that is simply too much heat around already thin sections of wood. So the fire comes first, and the machining follows afterwards.

Much, much later, I’d love to explore other pipe designs. There are plenty of ideas in my head already. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

But for now I want Wisp to do a few things really well:

Practical. Timeless. Robust.

And most importantly for me:

Stable.

I wanted something you can simply put down on the table without having to think about it.

Sometimes five degrees and a few extra millimeters make all the difference.

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Wisp — ready for testing

Drilling is done. The 5° tilt is clearly visible — and even when pushed down at the mouthpiece, Wisp rocks back onto its feet. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

Now for some real-world testing.

And meet one of my four Art Directors:

Lady, 19 years old.

Her feedback is subtle, her standards are high, and apparently today’s main concern is whether the new Wisp matches the table.

So far, no objections. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

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Powering Noema — from wall power to off-grid :electric_plug::battery:

A little side project I’ve been playing with.

I don’t plan to supply power supplies with Noema. Instead, I want to give people a few options, from simple and cheap to slightly ridiculous. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

The standard solution is exactly that: a basic adjustable DC power supply. Nothing fancy. Set the voltage and it does the job.

Small tip: put a Shelly (WallPlug) switch in front of it. Then you can leave the voltage exactly where you like it and don’t have to mess with the rotary knob every time. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

Then I found this ready-made Makita 18V battery solution on AliExpress.

Of course I had to try it. :joy:

Battery in, regulated power out — all in a surprisingly neat little package. And it works nicely with Noema.

That got me thinking about a DIY version.

While looking for parts, I came across the SK200W buck converter — and I simply couldn’t resist. It’s tiny, has adjustable voltage and current, a display, and plenty of headroom for Noema.

https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005012689391829.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.91a15c5fD4zsCm&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu

So now there’s another little project: Makita battery adapter, fuse, SK200W and a few printed parts.

At Noema’s roughly 13W operating point, I’m expecting somewhere around 6 hours of off-grid fun, depending on the battery and losses.

So there are basically three ways to go:

Simple wall supply.
Ready-made off-grid.
DIY off-grid.

I’ll share the parts and links for the DIY version once I’ve tested everything properly.

I’m not getting into the power-supply business — but apparently I am getting into the power-supply rabbit hole. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

P.S. The SK200W can also do a ridiculous amount of stuff I’ll probably never need — WiFi, Bluetooth, graphs, presets, monitoring and all kinds of other nonsense.

So naturally, I had to have one. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

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Finally — my glass tube cutter :grin:

Then I realized just how many glass pieces I’ll have to cut for the first batch… yeah, I needed a better solution. Fast. :joy:

Some of you might remember that I mentioned this Japanese glass tube cutter a while ago and said I’d love to have one.

Well… it took a little while. But you know — good things take time.

Last night was a long one. For me and for the 3D printer. :joy:

At first I was completely disappointed. It just didn’t work.

So I went back to the manufacturer’s website and stumbled over one little detail I had completely forgotten:

The carbide wheel is fixed. It doesn’t rotate.

Of course, after figuring out how to mount that tiny carbide wheel inside the tube, I had made mine rotate. :man_facepalming:

So I locked it in place.

Tried again.

And what can I say… perfect. :grin:

Sometimes the difference between “this is useless” and “this is exactly what I wanted” is one tiny screw turn. :joy:

P.S. Turns out a kiln really is unavoidable — safety first. :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes: Thanks for planting that thought in my head, @vaporbro. The kiln is already ordered. :joy:

And that’s exactly what I missed about FC: sometimes it’s the simple questions that start the most complicated thought processes. Nice to see that happening here again.

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