I was pleasantly surprised when I opened up my old Freight Train PID Controller for parts and found it doesn’t use an external SSR, instead powering the coil directly. Unfortunately, it isn’t labeled but it looks like a standard 1/32 DIN panel mount controller ala XMT7100. The only other unit with built in solid state switching I can find is from Auber.
Does anyone know where I can get other (affordable) PID controllers with built in solid state relays capable of a few amps to drive our heater coils? I thought they’d be common, but wading through the questionable descriptions of most online listings says otherwise.
Basically, I’m looking for as simple and compact a solution as possible to put into DIY builds to be shared. Is Auber the only reliable solution?
Most have internal relays, the ones without are much less common. They usually label them as “output mode” and should be like “3A 250v”. SSR usually refers to a external relay. These pids are just generic industrial controllers so you’ll need to configure for your specific setup.
I bought a few MT-S pids a few months ago but haven’t had time to test them yet.
The Auber is what I’m looking for, but I’m just wondering if there are cheaper generic units that are reliable. I don’t know how my search missed the 7200! My senility is coming on strong!
I have a few of them sitting around as well. Unfortunately, the ones I bought have a built in physical relay and SSR trigger output. I love the dual pv/sv screens on those units.
Umm, Google Gemini says this about the XMT7200,using it with the CH B0:
The Problem: The industrial algorithm inside the XMT-7200 expects to control large, slow-moving factory heaters. It struggles heavily with the rapid, volatile thermal shifts of the B0. If you try to use its “Auto-Tune” function, the XMT-7200 will repeatedly overshoot the temperature—potentially overheating your rubies or scorching your flower—or it will lag, causing the B0 to run way too cold midway through your hit.
That said, I have a $30 PID from AliExpress that is likely an XMT7200 and it seems to work fine, but I’m not all that picky.
After your post was the catalyst for my doing some personal research, I see not with the Auber 300b is so well thought of.
I wouldn’t trust Gemini too far. Ball vapes are fairly niche, not many sources of good info for it to learn from.
Overshoot is programable. But the B0 is the smallest mass Ball Vape I am aware of, issues may persist but many people have this setup working fine.
AliExpress is full of PIDs with built in relays. I’m sure you found some XMT-7200s there.
Yep, I always cross check AI results, but AI is a good start.
Here’s what it said when I started digging into the Auber SYL-2372 and the 5A SSR rating of the 7200 vs the 2A rating of the 2372, using it with the B0:
Think of the AliExpress 5A rating like a cheap budget car whose speedometer says it can go 160 MPH—if you actually try to push it there, the engine will explode. The Auber 2A rating is like a high-end truck rated to tow exactly 2 tons; it will do it safely, smoothly, and all day long without breaking a sweat.
I’m a simple DIYer, and I hadn’t thought of building a PID. I have built some Bottlehead headphone amps, and a few other kits. Building a PID into a nice, vented, wood enclosure looks interesting.
There are different types of the XMT7100 on Ali. Some with built in SSR and some without. If its a version with SSR it is mentioned exactly in the description or pictures. I have built a couple of heating stations with them. No problem. Only check the printed pinout on the case, since there are different ones
Just finished up the build with the freight train PID controller I pulled, one of the many xmt7100 variants I’m guessing as the programming codes all work. It’s definitely a little slower to respond than my RDK-300, but there’s still some tuning left. More than good enough for a ball vape, and the thing is tiny. Thanks everyone for the heads up on the 7200 model number with the built in SSR. Makes the search for future buys much easier.
I believe the XMT7xxx are essentially generic Auber clones & that is why they share the 0089 code etc. I’d go to Auber for the better documentation, unless you really need the cost to be low, are building a bunch, etc. It’s a company that knows what they are doing.
Typical AI response that doesn’t know exactly what it is talking about, but latches onto some random fact. The thermal dynamics of a wired ball vape are plenty slow enough to be controlled by an XMT7200, or an Auber unit. Cycle rate of the controller can be set down to 2 seconds with ssr. You have to tune/configure the controller, of course, as it is meant for general purposes, not just e-nail coils. Auto-tuning works just fine. It overshoots the setpoint during this process, yes, as a means of doing system identification. But you don’t vape during auto-tuning! That is only for getting the P, I, D parameters set correctly, without having to do it manually. If auto-tuning doesn’t give a good result you can tweak it. This is where the auber documentation comes in, it tells you how to configure the parameters correctly, and how auto-tuning works.
Auber 300B is tuned out of the box for enail use, so will be close enough for most coils. It doesn’t have an auto-tuning function, since you probably won’t need it anyway. The knob and dual temperature display are nice.
It does sound like a good project! I would suggest however not to put all the components directly inside the wood. Some do, but it isn’t really proper. These devices run off mains power and wood has no rating for electrical isolation, and cannot be grounded for safety. No big deal, just put the controller, input connector, XLR etc into a grounded metal case or at least onto a grounded panel, and then put that into the wood. Anyway, if you’re not selling it, plenty of old radios etc had wood with mains voltage inside, not isolated. But there’s a reason they don’t do it anymore and it wouldn’t pass any certification.
Didn’t think of taking any pics during the build of course. Doh! I got tired of having my controller tied to my wireless ball vape I made a while back, so I threw a new stand together last night with cutouts for the 1/32 controller. Came out quite well I think. This was suppose to be a trial print, then I was going to make it a bit nicer by printing a new one that molds into the white stem, extending down into a fake patch of grass or something.
Anyways, it was suppose to be a test of how cheap I can make an integrated ball vape stand, and send it out to the masses when it’s finalized. The print was about 100g of filament, which is about $2. Controller about $35 for the trusted Auber unit, or cheaper for the generics. Any spare grounded cord you have laying around, some wiring, throw in a 2a fuse, a coil, and that’s about it.
