My experience using Powdered Brewery Wash for cleaning vape stuff

Hi All,

I wanted to give a quick write-up of my experience using Powdered Brewery Wash (PBW) as a cleaner instead of ISO. Please don’t take this as a guide, it’s just my thoughts following my first cleaning with it.

First a little summary about PBW from Gemini

Powdered Brewery Wash (PBW) is a safe, non-hazardous, buffered alkaline cleaner used to remove caked-on organic soil, proteins, and krausen from brewing equipment. [1, 2, 3]

Key Features

** Safe on Metals: Unlike caustic soda, it will not corrode soft metals like aluminum, brass, or stainless steel.*
** Active Oxygen: Uses active oxygen to penetrate carbon and protein soils.*
** Hard Water Tolerant: Formulated with chelators to work effectively in hard water environments. [1, 2, 3, 4]*

Standard Usage

** Hot-side cleaning (kettles/tanks): Dissolve 1 to 2 ounces per gallon of warm/hot water.*
** Cold-side cleaning (fermenters/kegs/bottles): Dissolve ¾ to 1 ounce per gallon of water.*
** Process: Soak or circulate the solution, then rinse thoroughly with water. Note: Do not mix with hot water in an airtight container, as it creates pressure. [1, 2, 3, 4]*

PBW is most effective when used in around 60C water according to what I read. I bought a basic sous-vide machine to control the water temp and put some glass vape stems and WPAs in a mason jar along with a disassembled Frolic CU no aluminum heatsink. PBW can cause pitting on aluminum and it is a sensitive metal so not worth the risk when cleaning vapes.

I filled the quart (basically 1 liter) mason jar with tap water and added 2 tsp, which is on the higher side to help with thick resin stains. My glass is kinda thick but you could put a silicone mat or towel at the bottom of the jar for safety but I didn’t. Could also use a ziploc but I didn’t want to risk a leak for my first time.

I put the mason jar in a pan with my sous-vide attached set to 60C and added water to match the level in the jar, and stay in the min/max range of my sous-vide machine.

I had some really nasty thick resin stains on some Solo WPAs, glass stems and the Frolic CU so I waited a full hour. Rinsed everything in hot tap water after pulling them out of the jar and most stains slid right off. A few things required brushing while rinsing in hot water to dislodge stuff.

The PEEK Frolic CU needed the most brushing but stuff came off. I still find I didn’t get the “squeaky” clean effect i.e. things still felt sticky on some pieces even with nothing visible but I wiped these with ISO wipes and that worked.

Because I still needed at least some iso, I’m not sure this is a total success. I want something cheaper and less environmentally damaging so I’ll see if I can improve things in the next cleanings.

Edit: I left all silicone gaskets/o-rings in the PBW bath as it’s safe for those which is a bonus. I would suggest letting them cool after the hot bath before using them as they’ll deform when hot.

Be aware that PBW will remove anodization from titanium pieces.

Ok, that’s good to know. I think I only had stainless, glass, silicone and PEEK stuff in my batch of things. Doesn’t removing titanium anodization help titanium look shiny again? I don’t know if I own any titanium that was anodized on purpose. :thinking:

PBW is great for glass. My Simrell Hyper 9, however, was a lovely purple before I dunked it. If I had wanted to return it to shiny titanium, I’d have been pleased in the end, but after a short soak, it came out light greenish (the tip had been heated and retained more color at first), which was rather disappointing, surprising, even a little upsetting. With a second soak, it was back to plain shiny titanium.

did it anodize again with further use?

I don’t know. I decided to sell it to someone who wanted a Hyper 9.

I’m pretty sure a flame or induction would bring the oxidation layer back over time.

Perhaps I should clarify, this was electrochemically anodized, not from heat application.

Before and after photos: