The hotspotting has kind of turned me off from using it the past few days but i also got some other vapes in.
I’d also like one of the new o-ring sets since the bowl clanks alot on my device and it has almost seperated when getting warm at times.
In the meanwhile, anyone care to share settings they had the best results with ?
I was using the Convex 2.0 for about 10 days. I have to change the batteries frequently as I vape about 8-10 bowls/day(Fill chamber half way and even it out to reduce hot spots). This morning when I went to put a new battery ito leave the house, the unit no longer powers on. I tried the usb-c charging port and it’s a dead connection as well. Was using Molicel P30B’s and now nothing works.. Tested over a dozen 18650’s and all failed.
What’s interesting is that I was accidentally sent 2 units when I placed my order. As soon as I sent the other unit back to Jamie last week, this happens now. I was really enjoying this new device too.. Probably vaped 90-100 bowls. Dialed it in within an hour. Only issues I had was the firing button unreliablity issue(sometimes had to press towards the bottom of the base to engage heater). Otherwise screen from heater kept falling out from the initial devirginizing of the unit, and the mouthpiece was still difficult to move into the up position.
Overall, this was the one out of 200+ DHV’s I picked up for over the last week as my first choice when heading out in the morning. Excellent flavor, even better than the Tafee off the first hit. Now I’m on the way back to the office using the Frolic again, which is a bit bulky for dress pants pockets. I know this is a prototype, and this kind of shit can happen like when I received the first production of the Venty a couple years back.
I will get in touch with Entheos today as this falls into the 6 month warranty that comes with the Convex 2.0.
Vape Out
Power: 60W
Res.: 0.305 (it is slightly above cold room reading, but cant remember how much and I dont have the device with me)
TCR: 0.00180
Room temp: 22C
Device temp: 210C
mine works quite well on those settings, but I am still testing different things
We were able to resolve @Vapeaway’s issue with the unit and was functional same night that we were contacted.
…
HOTSPOTTING ISSUE POTENITAL BAND-AID FIX
(no major disassebly needed, can be tried even if you have no issues, might have to tone down your tcr if you do max extraction temps ~230C)
Although it will:
*add a bit of restriction to the airflow, not big but noticeable.
*have some faint rattling sound when unit is shaken aggressively.
So I’ve been tryint to trace the issue regarding hotspotting as I’ve experienced it myself recently.It feels like it started when I did some deep cleaning, got lazy and reassembled with fresh internals.
Possible cause seems to be the drooping gap at the intake of the coils shown here:
Some are worse than others, this one here had the most droop to what I have on hand and I’ve installed it into one of my units.
So my theory is since there is this inconsistent droop down of the intake shape, it might be causing uneven airflow causing heated air to flow onto one side of the bowl faster thus stacking more heat there.
For now I have been testing a potential easy DIY solution for those affected by the issue, I’ll be explaining it here if anyone wants to try so I can have outside confirmation if it actually makes any difference. I seem to get some improvement by changing up the airflow infront of the air intake before it goes around the ceramic heater housing.
You’ll need: Zirconia or Quartz balls minimum of 3MM diameter. Around 4-7 pcs and possibly some tweezers.
HOTSPOTTING POTENTIAL WORKAROUND STEPS:
2)Drop down 4 to 7 balls (depending on how much air restriction you prefer to be added) --make sure they go into the air intake pathway and not into the vapor path going out to the mouthpiece stem.
3)Re-assemble unit and test.
The balls get trapped in this position here in a fully assembled unit.
The team over at Entheos contacted me and worked with me last night to resolve my power issue. They took their time until I confirmed it was working. By the way, with a bit more adjusting, the charging port is now working too. Entheos seems to be a great, small business who takes care of their customers. I believe once all these minor issues are resolved, the V3 will be one of the best on-demand portable vaporizers on the market, especially if they can still keep the price under $300 after the upgrades.
Vape Away
For now, we will focus on ironing out the V2 faults in its stock form. As all issues can be solved with part updates that will all be easily user-replaceable.
Once we get that ironed out we can get WPA production started and then I already have some concepts to prototype for an “aero” performance upgrade parts for the current v2 to further improve performance under heavy usage. V2.5 I guess?
We decided that V3 will have to be a design that will carry a chip that we have more control over. Either our own chip entirely or or our own custom firmware more tuned for DHV use.
What bothers you with the current YiHi chip? I guess the no liquid thing can be solved by using DNA instead.
Not really the ‘no liquid’ issue, they usually get resolved with coil reset and tend to not show up after, at least from my experience dailying two units.
They don’t allow us to have access to change how the firmware is structured, little changes like cutoff timers, display values have to go through them. Then if the request is too complex, it can only be tried by paying up a ‘prototyping’ fee.
DNA chips are a lot more expensive though. They can be used but would need a different internal chassis to accomodate it.
Shocked Evolv hasn’t done their own dhv yet.. last i chatted with the fella over there they said they had plans to but that was over a year ago to grab some extra cricket parts
Maybe they should just invest in us, we’re open to some equity share offers! 
I’m curious on what other options you might have for a custom chip. My first thought was that you can use a small Esp32 for the measurements and calculations. Write once and then all you need is assembly (other parts will be needed for better measurements and control). But maybe I’m too optimistic
I may have been very lucky with both my units (v1 and v2), since I (almost) never got hotspots???
My v1 got hotspots after a deep cleaning cause I bended the heater while screwing it back in the unit. And it took a fair bit to make it flat again once I realized what was causing the hotspots (and made me think why I can´t buy a spare heater?). Heater area was getting quite dirty until I realized it is better to continue drawing a couple of seconds after releasing the power button, as otherwise some vapor remeins inside the unit.
What I would check if I get hotspots is 1) the heater may be to hot; 2) I am not drawing fast enough once I feel vapor started; 3) bowl to full or weed somehow touching the heater screen.
I really think fine tunning is key with these devices. Once you get them into the sweet spot… they really shine.
Regarding the “no liquid” thing. I was getting that message out of the box with the v2. The problem with mine was that resistance was locked to low. I run an autocalibration and problem was gone (now I have it set above the autocalibration value). Autocalibration is really easy to be done folllowing the guide in Entheos website and it is quite a good starting point.
And about v3: I guess a bit earliy for this topic, but anyhow, my 2 cents: get back to peek bowl and SS airpath and add a little pocker tool somehow inside the unit (when I think my load is done, I stir a bit and get 1-2 extra draws (yep, I like to get the most out of it)).
last thing: for me the best part of the v2 is that now I take the v1 out of home and that has improve my out and about vaping experience quite a lot.
How much above the calibration value did you increase? Wanna try this out.
For everyone, you can actually set the coil values yourself by selecting the tcr value on the lower right when you are on the ‘use old, auto-lock’ part of the recalibration setup.
Cant remember. Unfortunately i cant ccheck as i am on a trip and took the v1 only
Bought the convex to try to get a small version of a portable Bowle hack and I received a customs duty for $145 Canadian dollars!!! Why? why? why? I paid $50 for shipping @Entheos.Hex How much did you declare this 3D-printed device as shipping it from the US to Canada? Any experienced retailer would have declared it at the minimum cogs to avoid pissing off customers with outrageous customs duties; even so, $145!!! whats going on?
Damn. I would definitely dispute that. I think mine was shipped to Canada from the UK and I only paid taxes, not duty which I think was around $45. I hate the lottery that customs has become since all the trade war BS.
On another note, I don’t know what’s changed exactly but after reducing my temps a bit from 225C to 215C, my small hot-spotting has largely disappeared. I tuned my TCR to 0.0210 a while back as my autolock resistance is around 0.2964.
My fire button is slowly getting better/more clicky so that’s nice but I still find something is amiss with my first draw. Even though I’m sure I’m pressing the button, on the first draw the heater seems to shut off after about 10-12sec but I don’t see any message displayed. The next hits seem fine so I’m not sure what’s going on. 
I tried whole nugs for the first time in this (and the frolic!) last night instead of ground. It went pretty well and I got it cooked through but I feel like it took twice as long and the device got SUPER hot on the bottom. The same thing happened with the Frolic so maybe that’s just the difference with vaping nugs vs ground material but it was hot enough for both that I will wanna stick to ground material. Plus less battery wasted for the same volume.
Taste was excellent as I’ve come to expect from the Convex 2.0, though!
In other news, I continue to have the power button issues and I’m pretty convinced at this point I have the button pushed on occasions where it doesn’t fire or goes into the menu. Every time I’ve said I found consistency on here the next session I get nothing for half my draws and end up in the menus at least once.
Yeah, heavily convection biased vapes like the Frolic and Convex need a lot of flower surface area so they do much better with ground flower. The hot air needs to come into contact with the flower to be effective and nuggets only have the outer surface area easily accessible. That makes heating the inner material a lot more difficult.
For vapes with a lot of radiant and conductive heat like the Quartz Cap and S3 for example, whole nuggets work really well.
Ok I might have dialed in my Convex after much fiddling. After chatting with @Entheos.Hex, he directed me to check my cutoff setting for why my heater was shutting off. Indeed, I was holding the button longer than 15sec (the default cutoff) on my first draw. I chose the max setting of 20sec and now that first hit is amazing!
The taste on this vape already caught my attention even while using it in a sub-optimal way but now… it really stands out. That first hit especially is just crazy good. Different signature than the TB2 or Frolic, which are great in their own right but this one is pretty outstanding.
I’ve not touched it as I’m starting at it disgusted with the amount I’ve had to pay for Customs and trying to see if I can either be reimbursed or return it. But hearing good things from you is tempting me to fire it up.
I wonder if this performs this well with fiddling i perhaps the Flaske or Frolic will be even better for me sans fiddling. I’m thinking of that for road trips but between Tafée and Storz and Bikel my collective investments are getting notable. 
