I got to 15 pots on my last count, before I forgot to keep marking them. It seems like it’s taken a few rounds of charging/discharging to get it’s full battery capacity. After my first charge, I think I got 12 pots before it died. I know very little about battery tech, so I don’t know if this is normal, or maybe just the Flaske not reading remaining charge correctly until after a couple cycles. I’d guess I’ll get 18-20 pots on a mix of setting 3 and 4.
And I 100% feel you on the battery thing. When I pre-ordered mine, they still had the picture/mock-up showing the battery compartment which wasn’t there last I looked. Obviously, I’d prefer hot swappable, and that’s what I thought I was buying. Hell, I’m not sure I’ve seen a vape with a battery that’s user replaceable, but not hot swappable. But, at least it can be changed when it starts to go bad without having to send it in.
Earlier on and in this & other forums I spoke of the frustration that would come from a “replaceable” vs. “hot swapping” paradigm.
I never could understand Tafee’s weak justification, it’s a “safety” issue and they used a “matched” battery for the Flaske? Weak, weak argument.
I think I now understand, the disassembly process of taking off an end piece, remove/replace a fastener could cause INCREASED chance of ADDITIONAL mis-alignment and cause greater return %’s for Tafee!
why not just make an easy to access battery area that the customer can hot swap in n out? No fasteners etc., but again the way the unit is assembled you would get misalignment problems, worse than already exists!
i’ve documented 3 full tests that were all consistent, but while not documenting it seems like i’ve had two or three “off days” where it didn’t even get me through the day
i’ve also noticed that I can tell when the battery is low - something I couldn’t do with the Bowle 2. When the flaske is getting low on battery it takes more than 4 cigar puffs to get vapor. A fresh charge takes 2.5
Apparently the Fuji from Camouflet is that way too. Another user said the bay is accessed by removing 4 screws. While mildly annoying, it doesn’t compare to t5 screw under the stem section, removing the plate, removing a tamper sticker that has no business there, and removing another t5 screw before finally getting to where you can access the bay.
Even all that aside, you have to factor in the fitment issues people complain about and if it happens because of poor assembly there’s a good chance people will misalign things when putting everything back together after replacing the battery.
I complain (A LOT) about certain things with the device because they are clear misses of the mark on what is acceptable to me in the tier they placed themselves and the air they carry in marketing and messaging.
For every thing they have given an eloquent but substanceless response to I’ve either given kudos or rebuttals with hard source information on.
It’s still a really good device.
The Convex 2.0 actually competes with it, but you have to be dialed in and not everyone has the comfort/skill/patience to do that which I get. Flavor, I can definitely say the Convex 2.0 is better and Flaske sits between that and the Frolic for my battery DHVs.
The experience when you have a Flaske with all pots loaded is really nice, but getting there is frustrating if you are already on the go and short on working surface space to load pots into the storage cartridge and stem and get it all back together (maybe swapping the plug for the mouthpiece too). So it’s great for on the go but only if you have it preloaded and ready to rock. The pleather cover adds multiple layers of complexity with minimal working space while loading and if you have dexterity issues I recommend skipping that attachment.
This, exactly. I said in my first email to them that they asked for a premium price for a premium experience, I held up my end but they fell far short of holding up theirs. I also agree with you that it’s a really good device, and one that hopefully will get daily use.
I’ve really been tempted by the Convex. The holdup for me is that I don’t want to be dicking with it constantly. That’s my big complaint about the Bakx. I’m constantly having to make adjustments to it depending on if I’m inside or outside, if it’s warm or cold out. If it’s a dial in once kinda thing, I’m in.
Truly an L to expect stoners to remember to plug it in to charge after a session
I am also swinging wildly between “wow these elements are really annoying and this company’s attitude is not promising” and “wow this thing rules I enjoy using it a lot”. It’s such a good daytime high and I can get great clouds out of it now especially now I’m used to the Fusion 2 mouthpiece (thanks again to everyone for the rec on that). If they actually take the time to listen to users the Flaske v2 could be truly incredible, but right now it’s very understandable that people feel unhappy with them.
As I read through this thread from time to time, I start to get a lot happier about not receiving my Flaske, maybe Tafee did me a favor. For the price, think I’ll wait for a v2 at this point. So much variability, the device should work the same for everyone and be thoroughly dialed in at the price point.
I’ve been exploring the airflow and wooshy-ness after observing some extremely small inconsistencies.
Today i doubled the o-rings on one of the pots and tested it. It made the airflow slightly tighter and increased vapor density, too. The fit feels too tight though, and I wouldn’t recommend doing this.
Gaps looking more even after a few weeks, maybe my imagination
I have spoken/conjectured about both the Flaske and the Bowle air flow
you could drill holes into side of Flaske
No difference in flow
Have posted old pics of the heater earlier in this thread with flow sketch way back on FC and in this thread
flow concept of a fresh air reservoir within the isolated cavity away from electronics
a suspended enclosed ceramic sandwiched heater, drawing fresh air from that cavity
openings into the heater are the bottleneck of flow
go ahead and drill holes into Flaske, — no change in flow at mouthpiece, but it will definitely sound different
just like it sounds different when you plug inlet fins, just a sonic difference, not a thermal or flow resistance difference
Rate determining step, AKA “bottleneck”, is the entry opening size into the ceramic heater module, look at my pic posts of bowleV1 innards posted above. Posted to hopefully explain visually/conceptually the concept of flow…how the heater pulls from internal cavity at the rate determined by its own entry gaps, regardless of the vape’s housing cavity size or inlet holes
Yours looks pretty tight and reminds me of my first FLASKE. We’ll see what the new base with my old stem looks like from a fit and finish perspective. ETA Friday.
I used my $50 credit to get some extra pots shipped in the same box so that I don’t have to pay $$30 shipping for $40 worth of pots.
After using it quite a bit lately, I’ve noticed the airflow sounding different at times. Since the airflow is quite loud, it’s easy to tell when there’s a change.
I tried to figure out the cause. Normally, I draw quite hard without noticing any difference, but towards the end of the night—or after several consecutive sessions—my throat tends to get irritated. This prevents me from drawing as hard, which can lead to inconsistencies. I also wondered if a low battery might be causing the issue.
However, I noticed airflow differences when switching pots. I remembered experiencing the same thing with the Bowle V2, though it was less noticeable there since the airflow wasn’t as strong or loud. I use third-party steel screens in the pots, and the holes are smaller than the originals. They work well, but they can easily get clogged depending on your cleaning routine.
I think that because the Flaske has such high airflow, it becomes obvious very quickly when the screen gets clogged and creates a bottleneck. I haven’t noticed these inconsistencies when using a clean screen. I still need to do some more testing, but I’m sharing this in case it helps anyone else experiencing the same thing.
Elements of this I can agree with personally this end I think its got more to do with how full the pots are.Had a bowle v1 before and the flaske seems to want less full pots imo but I could be wrong. I also think the narrower bore tip from the dani could be helping the pull and it defo sounds and feels more restricted with cover on.
for context I am currently running it this way
turn on cycle heater twice for a second or less and then draw with third draw onwards.Am clearing a maybe three quarter full pot with two to three 6/8 second pulls.I was finding it a bit hard to pull thru without goin nuts before now no issue.Normal screens etc.Quickly coming to believe this to be the best in practice portable.
Depending on my mood, I’ll either pack light (.15g) or I’ll pack it full (.25g) and tamp pretty good. I’ll get bigger hits with the tamped pot but both work very very well.
I think I need to try a fully packed pot. I have heard a few people now that have had good results. I believe @420vapezone had some nice results as well. Any noticeable downsides to going rogue and fully packing the pots? I really do to want to combust.
The only chance to combust is on “5”. I use it but I don’t go any more than about a 10 second draw – depending on the amount in pot and/or how tamped the pot is.
I’ve never combusted with either the Bowle 2 or the Flaske. Of course, I am a dynavap user so i pretty much can tell when I’m getting close to combustion.
Just don’t take 20 second draws on level 5 and you should be fine.
I also think the narrower bore tip from the dani could be helping the pull and it defo sounds and feels more restricted with cover on.
