Ooops, so sorry for the misunderstanding. Thumbs up for you! and eye rolling for me for not seeing the obvious.
I truly appreciate your help 
Edit: I removed the emoji in the above posting.
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Oooeeee. I have to say that the 2mm SiC balls really improved the performance and practicality of the Crown Cap if you are loking for a “one and done”! The SiC makes for a fast and loud heat dump.
I changed out the Ti bowl insert for the quartz. Any binding issues have been eliminated and great flavour too. I usually prefer ruby to SiC taste wise but this isn’t bad at all.
The SiC bowl is an interesting development. Im loving the modularity.
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Man, totally back up your experience. Just changed out the ruby for SiC and man what a difference. A real one hit extraction.
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Hey all, just joined after lurking and watching this group and content from https://www.instagram.com/tirnacraic in Instagram (a nice guy too).
I am disabled, so it’s taken me a while to comment. Broadly speaking, @JCVAP has done something brilliant. Thank you, John.
Here’s my honest feedback, loves and concerns.
- Flavor and effects are really good. I didn’t have a ball vape and could tell the difference. Even when I accidentally combusted with my YLL, it was weirdly the best, least disgusting combustion compared to Anvil, Dynavap or TM2 combustion. Not an observation that I expected to make
- I really wanted SIC balls, so I ordered another 100 with the kit to top off the gap. Stupidly didn’t realise the kit was rubies. Kit should have a SIC option, but I imagine the kits are preprepped. Now I’ve got lots of rubies I don’t need.
- Overall design is elegant. Would be nicer if the wood bowl handle and crown handles were the same wood though. That does reduce the impact unnecessarily, especially when the logos and case are nice touches which took effort.
- Metal work quality was less than I am used to tbh. The shape of either the titanium bowl or the crown wasn’t quite perfect, when cold. That included a rough edge. I’ve been rotating them when hot to try to wear them down. Not sure if that works, a YLL doesn’t heat to those levels, and I worry a bit about metal shavings. My AliExpress tbowl might fit a little better, but I haven’t pinned down why.
- Haven’t tried my quartz bowl yet
- Would love some kind of half bowl adapter for the titanium (I see what is being tested for the non metal ones)
In short, I’m pleased to have tried. There are rough edges, literally. But there is the seed of a really good product lineup, analogous to Dynaverse modularity.
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Awesome review. Re machining: I found the threading on my bowl to be really quite rough but otherwise machining was satisfactory.
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Has anyone tried the JCVAP Crown with different heating setups?
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I’m curious if anyone has tested the JCVAP Crown with the Camouflet Inductor. How well does it work? Does it heat the Crown effectively and evenly? What settings and heat-up times are you using?
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Also, has anyone tried the Crown with a 16.8 mm coil and a regular PID controller? If so, I’d love to hear about your results — temperatures, heat-up time, performance, and how it compares to other heating methods.
Thanks!
IIRC, there were a few people putting click discs from madheaters or elsewhere in with their heating media, for making the inductor and reheats/torching easier. But yeah I know a few people were using the inductor w the setup!
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Where are people putting the disc in a standing position? Top or bottom?
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I have been suspicious about the metal ring and quartz insert combination and after a week the quartz did brake. I didn’t recognize it until I unscrewed the metal ring and figured that half of the thickening snapped off. I hope I didn’t inhale any glass chips…
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Exact same thing happened to me! 
I only used it a few times and once I unscrewed it to clean it, it fell apart just like you have described.
I have another one on the way since I enjoyed using it, but will have to be very careful tightening the ring. The only way I can think to prevent is leaving the ring loose and just tight enough to grip a single thread, but I haven’t tried that yet. Hopefully still works just the same even if a bit wobbly
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I will give it another try, too. The price tag of the quartz insert is a no-brainer but I did remove the ruby one from my order.
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I finally got around to trying the crown in a 25mm tiodw axial coil with the adapter. I usually heat heat the crown in a YLL at 85w for 60s with a 15s bowl preheat, so I’ll be using that as my baseline for comparison. Oh and I threw the spare click disc that came with my T2 on-top of the stock rubies, it usually clicks around 58s in the YLL.
I first set my PID to 625° and dropped the adapter and crown in the hot coil. It took about 5 minutes to click, the vapor was thin and left the herb green. Dropped it back into the coil for another 5min heat soak and hit the bowl again. Ripping past the vapor production point until it clicked again left the bowl a light golden colour. It then took about 35 seconds to click after dropping it into the hot hole.
Then, with the PID set to 640° and another 5 minute heat soak I started to get thicker vapor and was left with a nice light brown roast. It took about 40 seconds to click again while reheating.
650° with another 5 minute heat soak left me with a nice medium brown roast and took about 30 seconds to click again. Preheating the bowl for 15 seconds in the YLL pushes the roast to a darker shade and helped extend the session.
And finally I set my PID to 660° and with a preheated bowl I get the closest I’ve been to a OHE with the crown. A dark, thorough extraction on-top, a middle third left dark but still brown, and medium roast on the bottom third. You could potentially give it a stir and have another go, but I left it at one cycle despite reheating at other temperatures.
All in all it performs really well in a coil. I don’t think it would need more than 60 seconds to heat once the adapter is properly heat soaked, with the time going from warm to click at around 35 seconds. I would add that somewhere between 650 and 660 is comparable to 60s at 85w in the YLL for me. I also kinda wish the adapter had a hole to thread a handle into so I can safely remove while it’s hot and not melt my table… Oops.
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Thank you so much for taking the time to write such detailed feedback, and I’m really glad to hear you’re enjoying the flavor and performance of the Crown overall!
The combustion comment made me laugh — definitely not a feature we intended to advertise, but I’m glad even that experience wasn’t too terrible.
You’re right about the SiC option. At the moment the kits are pre-packed with ruby balls, which makes inventory and fulfillment easier for us, but offering a SiC version of the kit is something we can consider.
I also agree that matching the wood on the Crown handle and bowl handle would make the whole setup feel more consistent. We are already looking at the wood options for future production.
The rough edge on the titanium parts concerns me more. Please don’t intentionally try to wear the parts down while they’re hot. If you can, please post or send me a few close-up photos showing the rough area and where the fit feels incorrect. I’d like to check whether this is just an individual machining/finishing issue or something we need to improve in production. If there is a quality issue with your part, we’ll take care of it.
And yes, we are already experimenting with smaller/adjustable bowl configurations and different basket screen ideas. The modularity you mentioned is exactly the direction I want to keep developing — different bowls, materials, joints, heating methods and accessories that can work around the same Crown platform.
Thanks again for the constructive criticism. Feedback like this — including the things we need to improve — is genuinely useful to us.
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@JCVAP received my setup today and can add that the threads could be improved. Not bashing, the value of the purchase far exceeds my expectations. Love the bowl design and tbh, I liked the unfinished handle…got some nice stain waiting lol.
I was not fortunate using my Yll. Stock tube, 80w for 45 seconds production was below needed heating. Was going to try again but Yll was super hot and smells not noticeable before were present. So…tried the camo inductor (24.4) and was semi able to do the job. I added a temp disc but had to go far past the click. Finally pulled out the torch and combustion was not far behind.
I’ve heard of a designated IH in the planning stages…crossing my fingers for a simple at home version that will allow this old man to plug and play.
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You need to remove the inlay of the Yll stock glass. IIrc someone did report that they melt.
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FYI: I fixed the tight Ti bowl fit by taking a dremel sanding wheel to the bowl. Now I get a solid fit and no catching. Probably just took off a tenth of a mil (0.1mm) and that did the trick.
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For deburring threads or other finished parts in stainless or Ti, scotch brite pads work great. I prefer the red/ maroon (7447) you should be able to find them at your local hardware store near the sandpaper. Cleaned up the threads on the 14mm joint like a champ.
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My Ti top actually got a bit sticky the other day, but I didn’t notice the really thin lip of the diffuser had collected some micro particles and residue I guess from my camping trip.
Mine also has been used a lot so it’s possible it’s loosened up over time from regular use, but no intentional grinding or rubbing between parts. Twisting can actually help lock two hot materials together fwiw
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